Beckmans x NK's French at the Nordic Museum
September 17, 2021

Twelve visionary concepts and creations

The exhibition opens at the same time as "Paris of the North" about NK's French women's tailoring 1902–1966 and shows twelve visionary concepts and creations where creative design and traditional craftsmanship meet today's and tomorrow's challenges in sustainability and material renewal.

- NK's Franska is an important and unique part of Swedish fashion history and a gold mine for future generations of creators. From this treasure, the students at Beckman College of Design have created visions of what couture could be at a future fashion house, a future NK's Franska. Through advanced forms and craft techniques, they have created their highly personal interpretation," says Pär Engsheden, designer and program manager for fashion at Beckmans.

In the couture studios of the future, the presence of the hand is clear and the 3D printer is a matter of course. The exhibition "Paris of the Nordics" shows the source of inspiration: original creations from the legendary order studio NK's French women's tailoring.

Concept and participating fashion students 

Future studio
Alice Svensson Brostedt
"In my future studio, we work with slow fashion and basically build all the material from scratch. My goal is that the garments can be used over time and still be aesthetically relevant and artistically interesting."
Materials: Silk organza, sheep wool, mohair and cotton.
Craftsmanship/technique: Handwoven fabric on counter-marching loom, silk organza, manipulation and pearl embroidery.

The Mourning After
Amanda Rascka
“I min kreation har jag gestaltat underjordens estetik; smuts, smog och D-vitaminbristens påföljande blekhet. I underjordens estetik med undergång i antågande, då naturen är skövlad och ljusterapi sker i tablettform, kanske evolutionen förändrar vår förmåga att uppfatta ljus.

Som del i mitt undersökande arbete om kreationens färgval, får framtidens visa om min chromatiska färgskala kommer att uppfattas som “upplysande” eller “förmörkande”. På samma sätt förhåller jag mig till couturens framtida roll, som antingen uppslysande eller förmörkande – Only the mo(u)rning after can tell.”
Material: Återvunnen sidensatin. Accessoar av återvunna spillbitar av silverräv och kalvskinnHantverk/teknik: Shibori, draperad enligt zero waste-metoden.

Uzay (space in Turkish)
Asli Cömert
"What would couture look like if it were created on another planet with a new and more advanced technology? Are traditional textiles used or do we dress the body in holograms or gas that only the eye can see but do not exist?"
Materials: Cotton and glass beads. Shoes and handbag made of PLA, cotton and natural gemstones. Crafts/technique: Knitted, draped, pearl embroidered, pearl woven, 3D printer.

Silly Bow
Desirée Bjurinder Fritzon
"What is not visible is no longer relevant. In connection with the pandemic, we have learned to meet digitally – and that we only need to dress up the part of the body the camera shows. From the waist up." Material: Wool, silk bed.
Craftsmanship/technique: Laid pleats, draped, padded skirt part.

Body Upgraded
Hilda Landstrom Ferm
What does a future body look like? How does it move? Does it move at all, or is it sedentary and allows robots to carry out the movement? My vision is a future craft studio that designs garment parts after the constantly upgraded and modulable body."
Material: Cashmere, silk.
Craft/technique: Textile sculpted. Fabric draped and shaped around sculpture.

Volatil
Isabelle Sjöman
"My vision of a future atelier is about sustainability and transformation and is based on pleating and technology. The customer orders a creation and will then be able to return to have their garment re-pleated into a brand new product design."
Materials: Silk, recycled polyester. 3D accessory of polypropylene.
Craft/technique: Pleated, draped and inspired by the zero waste method. 3D printer.

En framtida ateljé
Kevin Nilsson
“Min vision för en framtida ateljé är en plats där möjligheter är oändliga. Där jag formar koncept från grunden för varje unik kund. Mitt signum är en stram bas med draperade volymer, som tar plats. En couturelook för den som vill göra avtryck i samtiden och framtiden.”
Material: Ull, dupionsiden. 3D-accessoar av polypropen och Swarovskistenar.
Hantverk/teknik: Drapering, dekoration med Swarovskistenar, 3D-skrivare.

One Piece Can Fit All
Maya Sundholm
"I've been inspired by zero waste and 'one piece can fit all'. My vision is to give fashion a longer life by reshaping with draping. That a piece of fabric can be worn several times – and that the transformation creates a close relationship between the creator and the client."
Material: Silk organza, silkaft. 3D earrings: PLA plastic, stones, gemstones and glass. Craftsmanship/technology: Draped (CLO 3D pattern), inspired by the zero waste method, 3D printers.

Big Black Sheep
Saveja Awzel

"Couture to me is something personal that there is only one copy of and is defined by a craft – something unique, like a person's personality. As a homage to the "black sheep" within us, I portray my creation in the color black that is powerful for me."
Material: Silkaft, beads.
Craftsmanship/technique: Draped with padded shapes, pearl embroidery.

Everything has already been done
Samuel Westerberg
"Couture is both traditional and innovative. I am fascinated by historical garments and my future vision of couture is to interpret classical attributes. "Everything has already been done" is a phrase often used. I do not reinvent the wheel, but create something new from what already exists through digital and material innovation."
Material: Wool. Headdress of parchment.
Craftsmanship/technique: Smocked, draped, constructed sculptural elements.

Inner exploration
Teodor Warpe
"My vision as a fashion designer is based on the individual, the nudity that arises without togetherness. To create a fashion that inspires the search for a true self, the search for the playful child mind. Innovative and revolutionary ideas are often generated by play – by seeing the world with an innocent eye."
Material: Stretch lacquer.
Craftsmanship/technique: Cuts with Sewn-in ribbons.

Vision Couture
Thomas Wieser
"My vision is that my future studio together with many other studios will create a new creative landscape. The democratization of technology enables more fashion designers to realize their ideas and the range of couture diversifies and becomes more accessible."
Materials: Silk taffeta, organza.
Crafts/techniques: Draped, lacing for variation of the garment product design.